I have to confess that news of another restaurant opening in Surry Hills - the Sydney suburb with more restaurant comings and goings than Freehills has deal announcements - doesn't have me bursting with excitement.
However, while Monkey Magic will have its fair share of competition, its creative, modern Japanese menu should give it a good headstart.
Though Japanese in essence, chef Hidetoshi Tsuboi's draws inspiration from Italian, Chinese and South- East Asian cuisines - with tortellini, Carpaccio and even chocolate spring rolls making an appearance.
The décor also steps away from Japanese tradition, pairing the original, sandblasted, brickwork with deeply stained timber and dim lighting to create a sleek, modern, very Surry Hills feel.
We start with a classic - agedashi tofu, which is delicate, soft and delicious in a soy broth.
A generous soft shell crab roll is delightful - the lightly crisp crab is combined with leek, tomato, flying fish roe and mizuna (a Japanese leaf), and flavoured with a thoughtfully restrained drop of spicy mayonnaise.
The king fish sushi, flavoured with sesame oil, is the best of the Monkey Magic sushi selection, which also comprises tuna sushi dolloped with yuzu cream, and salmon sushi. All up it's nice, but not remarkable, with the rice a little on the soft side.
It's a shame about poor Pigsy, but the twice-cooked pork belly is the most memorable dish. The tender flesh has a sweet, gently caramelised crust, and is masterfully paired with mustard and perfectly sautéed silver beet. But next time I'll give the side Monkey Magic salad - a rather bland mix of mizuna, radish and thinly sliced raw baby beetroot - a miss.
The menu's ties to Japan loosen even more with dessert, which include a white sesame-infused tiramisu and a chocolate pudding. We've made a good choice with the banana, white chocolate and shiso harumaki (spring rolls). A tried and true combination with crepes - banana and white chocolate are divine in a crunchy pastry shell. It's paired with a raspberry coulis, the sweetness nicely mellowed by green tea ice cream - an imaginative dessert which will have people talking.
Another tried and true way of getting "in" with the discerning Surry Hills crowd is a good drinks list, and Monkey Magic ticks all the boxes in that regard. The menu includes a range of Sake (one hailing from the Blue Mountains), an extensive international wine list, and an intriguing selection of cocktails.
You could come back again and again to test out these unique concoctions, which include a refreshing Edo Garden tea, which brings together jasmine and rose tea, cucumber, mint and Hendricks gin, and Hachi Mitsu - a short and sweet blend of honey vodka and plum wine with orange blossom and muddled lemon.
As with all Surry Hills newbies, Monkey Magic has its work cut for it, but it seems to have the right ingredients to get the locals on side.
Monkey Magic
3 and 4, 410 Crown Street,
Surry Hills, NSW
Ph: (02) 9358 4444
