Life as a lawyer in Saudi Arabia can be a little
daunting, writes Hyder Gulam, but it's a valuable experience if you know what to
expect.
Following
a stint working as a lawyer in Riyadh, the capital of the Kingdom of Saudi
Arabia, I thought it would be worthwhile to share my experiences with other
lawyers thinking about heading over from Australia. Working in the Kingdom
presents a very different way of life to what we have here and it pays to know
what to expect.
Before you arrive
So, you interviewed for the job; now what? Getting a work visa can
be the show stopper. It is best that you speak to and understand what is
involved with the office manager/administrator of the prospective employer.
Getting an "igama" (the Saudi work visa) is a big thing, and will allow you to
do many things, such as get visas for holidays to other countries, rent an
apartment or purchase a car in your name.
However, there can be minimum wait of up to eight weeks, and I
know of some of my fellow lawyers who waited up to 16 months.
Most likely you will have to bear you own costs re trying to
obtain a visa, flights, excess luggage and then be reimbursed by the firm when
you arrive. This means that there is an outlay you will need to consider not
only for this, but also to set yourself up when you arrive, such as hiring a
car until you can buy a suitable vehicle, housing and so on (which are
discussed below).
All in all, you will need to bear in mind that you may be in the
negative until you get reimbursed, and start getting paid.
Meanwhile, arriving from Australia, you will need to adjust to
being paid every month, and not every fortnight.
While I don't want to canvass in detail any tax implications,
working in the Kingdom has the added attraction of being "tax free" if you are
an expat - however you in all likelihood will need to demonstrate that you have
no financial links back to your country of origin. It seems that you cannot
open a Saudi bank account unless you have an igama. Thus, your options are to
be paid in your home country bank account (noting the tax implications, as well
as conversion fees when withdrawing money at a Saudi ATM).
The other option is opening an off-shore bank account, but you
will require a minimum monthly balance, usually around £10,000 ($17,700).
If you do use your home country bank account, make sure it has a
Maestro or Cirrus facility for you withdraw money here. I also suggest that you
withdraw the maximum amount with each transaction so as to minimise your
transaction fees.
Mobile phone/internet
You
will need a Saudi SIM card, and there are a number of Saudi telcos for you to
choose from. You will need your passport, as well as around 70 Saudi Arabia
Riyals (SAR) ($20) for the sim-card. Note that most offices are shut from 12pm
to 4pm (see shopping below).
If
you have your own place, you can get home broadband, but I understand that
there is a wait of up to four weeks, and of course you will be paying line
rental, as well as the cost of the broadband service. The other option is to
purchase the wireless bundle which is about SAR1000 for the modem, and
depending on your service, a range of prices.
I
have purchased a no-contract SAR200 per month 5GB plan. This is generally okay,
with faster speeds close to the city centre. However, it seems to run Skype and
MSN with some lag from time to time.
Buying a car
The
first step in buying a car is to research prices. Check out www.expatriates.com/classifieds/riy/.
If you don't buy brand new, it is obviously best if you can buy a car from a
departing expat, but if you can't I suggest the car yards on the road to the
airport (on the right hand side).
You
will need a local/Arab speaker to go with you - ask around the office for
someone to help here. You will also need to have the car inspected - I suggest
the SAR250 inspection which is a comprehensive computer and mechanical check.
Some
law firms offer a car loan of US$25,000 ($27,150) for two years interest free,
which is very helpful. The money is deducted monthly from your pay.
Now
if you don't have an igama, then you will need to put the car in someone's name
- perhaps your employer can help here. If you do so, suggest that you get full
comprehensive insurance, and once you have your igama, you will need to
transfer the car back into your name.
However,
before you can get your car, you will need a hire car. You will need your
passport, a copy of your license, a deposit, the amount up front for the duration
of the hire and a letter from your firm on letterhead stating that you are
employed, with your annual salary noted. I suggest that you get this document
in Arabic as well.
Driving around
One
of the lawyers I worked with once described to me that driving in the Kingdom
was akin to the theory of Thomas Hobbes: what life would be like without
government or rules, a condition which Hobbes called the state of nature, where
each person would have a right, or license, to everything in the world. This is
not far from the truth with regards to driving here, especially navigating the
roundabouts. Generally, I saw two accidents every day on the way to work.
Given
seat belts are not mandatory, and that cars sometimes have more occupants than
seat belts, and that children will be standing in the front seat - well, you
get the picture.
On
the freeways, I normally drove the middle lane, as the right most lanes will
have the trucks, and there will be the F1 wannabes in the left lanes. You need
to watch out most when there is an exit coming up, or a merging lane, as cars
will pull right in front of you. I use my indicators, and wave when folks give
way, but these actions are not required.
On
normal streets, I suggest driving in the middle or left lanes, as cars will pull
out of intersections (almost expecting you to give them way) and people will
pull out of parking bays. The trick is to be calm, have your radar turned on at
all times, expect the unexpected and maintain your situational awareness.
I
suggest that you watch out for any beat-up American sedan, as well as the
little Asian sedans, such as Toyota Corollas and Hyundai Accents. These
vehicles are generally driven by folks who worried me the most.
Two
unrelated last points here: I made a conscious decision to live close to the
law office. One of the main reasons was to minimise time of the road. The other
point concerns directions, road signs and maps. My best suggestion is to drive
around on Friday morning, when there is little traffic on the road, to get a feel
of city driving and the roads. I understand that you can purchase a GPS of
Riyadh, but I cannot comment as to its effectiveness.
Housing
Housing
in compounds is ridiculously expensive - for example, one compound charged
SAR80,000 for six months, not including utilities and other miscellaneous
expenses. I suggest negotiating with your employer regarding suitable
accommodation before you arrive.
The
other issue with compounds is the waiting list. For example, the waiting list
for one compound was three years. Compounds offer security, a semblance of
western lifestyle, with resort style living. It allows females to walk around
without abayas (the black cloak which covers the whole body).
Your
other option is looking for a place outside the compounds, perhaps the
Diplomatic Quarter. You then need to consider furnished or unfurnished. If you
have a family, the salient issues are how your children get to school, and if
your wife works - how she gets to work..
Of
course you can get a driver, which is around SAR1500 per month, but you will
need to house this individual, as well as other costs. Incidentally, a maid
costs about SAR1200 per month, not including other expenses, such as
accommodation.
Generally
rent is payable six months in advance as well.
Obviously
the best place to buy furniture in Riyadh is IKEA. There is a store in Riyadh,
which is open till midnight. In terms of electronics or white goods, have a
look at stores like Carrefour or Extra (in the Granada Shopping Centre). I
suggest that you get a decent map as soon as you can, and plan your routes in
advance.
Food and general expenses
Within
the limitations of living in the Kingdom, most foods are available here and at
very competitive prices. Some things are cheaper here, like food, but other
things are more expensive, like electronics. For example, the new Mac iBook is
about $200 cheaper in Australia.
Food
at the fast food chains generally charge the same price as you would pay back
home, taking into account the conversion rate. But I would recommend the local
cuisine, which is very cheap and also very tasty. Meanwhile, you won't need to
worry about the price of petrol, which is extremely cheap at just eight cents
per gallon.
Weekends, health and fitness
The
weekends in Saudi are Thursday and Friday, so Australians travelling over need
to adjust to a different working week, especially if you are used to calling
your family back home on Sunday when they are having a family roast.
Riyadh
is a big city, with about five million inhabitants. There is no public
transport that I know of, and everyone basically drives (except for women).
Thus, the air is quite polluted. You will find that you have more nasal
discharge than usual, and sputum for the first few weeks, and that you will
need more than normal water intake (a good two or three times more). Drinking
the tap water is not recommended, so you will need access to a good source of
purified water.
You
will need to find a good outlet for maintaining your fitness given there are no
good public walking/running tracks, and the weather can be brutal, so a gym is
ideal.
Finally,
I recommend that you moisturise often and all over your body. The weather
leaves the skin extremely dry.
Praying is routine
Just
about everything shuts or stops for prayers. Full stop. If you are not used to
the Azan (the call to prayer), it may wake you from your slumber at around 5am.
Learning the language
Learn
as much Arabic as you can before you arrive, as you will not have time to learn
while you are settling in. There are a couple of places, such as the Arabic
Cultural Centre (www.sa-acc.com), as well as folks who advertise private
tuition.
The shopping
In
the shopping centres, the shops are open from around 11am till midnight, but
close for prayers (around 20 minutes): at Zuhr (12-ish), Asr (3-ish), Magreb
(6-ish), and Isha (8-ish). On Friday, the shops are open from 4pm, except the
supermarkets which seem to either be 24 hours, or open around 8am.
On
the streets, the shops are open from around 8am, but close at noon, opening
again at 4pm till generally 11pm.
However,
this is just the rule, and there are many, many exceptions.
Clothes
are quite cheap, and you can get a tailored suit for around SAR400. Other
western items, such as sporting goods and t-shirts are also quite cheap.
Life for expat women
I
suggest that if you are coming with your wife and family, it is best that you
and your wife speak to a fellow expat before you arrive. Life can be
challenging here for women if you are not used to it - full stop. If your
family is not prepared, or cannot adjust to life here, I posit that your time in
Saudi Arabia will be quite short.
The routine as a lawyer
The
hours of work are officially 9.30am to 6pm, with a half day every second
weekend. However, these hours are flexible, as long as you achieve your budget.
Some of my fellow lawyers started at around 11am, but worked back to close to
midnight (they were single, or had family in the US).
Some
of your fellow workers do not work the Thursday, understandably as this is time
better spent with their family, and make up for it by starting early throughout
the week. It is best that you negotiate this upfront.
Is Saudi for you?
Coming
to Saudi is a challenge, but once you are here it is well worth it. You will
need to have loads of "sabr" (patience), and do not expect anything to be done
today, or this week for that matter. Things take time, and it best you realise
early that you "ain't in Kansas anymore"!
Finally,
make sure you have an exit strategy. Come with set goals in mind, and don't be
disappointed if things change.
As
they say in Arabic, "masalaam" - or "goodbye with peace".
Hyder Gulam is an associate with Logie-Smith Lanyon
Lawyers, based in Melbourne
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